Hybridillä notkoon

Viikon treenejen jälkeen tuli sovittua kaksi reissua viikonlopulle. Ekaksi lähettiin Kerimäelle simasinvuorelle. Singahdettiin matkaan 08.00 aamulla ja oltiin noin kympin aikoihin kaltsin alla laittamassa kamoja niskaan. Mulla oli tarkotuksena kiivetä Hybridi. Toinen simasinvuoren kahdesta helmestä.( toinen on vares.) Kävin heittämässä reitille jatkot lämppänä ja muuvit tuntu ihan hyvältä. No kun heikki oli asettunut kuvaus asemiin ja olin pitänyt pienen tauon lähdin ottamaan yrkkää. Pääsin helposti lopun tekniseen kruksiin. Kruksissa on sellane yhden tai kahden sormen jammikrimppi, jonka sitten kaivoinkin ihan kunnolla. Siinä kohassa oli jo tietty sellanen fiilis ettei tästä enää tulla alas vaikka mikä olisi. Noh kiskasin sen sitten siitä toppiin asti ja kattelin sitten lopuks oikean käden sormia jotka näytti aika ruhjotuilta. No ilosena sitten alas. Ihan mahtavaa kun saa näitä viimevuodelta jääneitä projekteja lähetettyä pois listalta. Kiipesin vielä päivän lopuks elämäni ensimmäisen trädin Indiana Jones. Kiitti juhalle kiiloista ja opastuksesta! Yhessä vaiheessa oli vähän horrori kun potkasin varmistuksen vahingossa pois ja seuraavaan kiilaan oli 5m matka. Onneks reitti oli semmosta kahvaa, ettei ruvennut tärisemään :)
http://www.dropbox.com/gallery/50279740/1/SamiK?h=2be2dd tuolta löytyy vähäsen kuvia reissusta. Hybridista on kans tulossa video!

Sunnuntaina käännettiin sitten auton nokka notkoa kohti.   http://27crags.com/crags/Notko , paljon reittejä välillä 4-6c ja sitten yks 8a, arvaattekin miksi mä olin siellä. Reittinä toimi pasin ensinousema Tarantella. Kokeilin reittiä muistaakseni 2 vuotta sitte pari yrkkää, mutta silloin ei ollu mitään mahiksia reittiin. No nytten vahvempana poikana tulin ja kävin kokeilemassa vähän muuveja. Sain tehtyä kaikki muuvit paitsi yhden heiton tosi terävään otteeseen jota en vain halunnut ottaa kiinni. Tulin alas ja levon jälkeen otin yrkän. Se meni sitten just siihen muuvin missä pitää tehdä heitto terävempään otteeseen, ja putosin siitä. Tiesin kuitenkin, että se oli lähellä joten eikun alas ja pikkutauko. Pääsin uudestaan samaiseen muuviin paitsi tällä kertaa pidin kiinni siitä otteesta. Loppukruksi menikin sitten puristamalla ja huutamalla lepoon asti (Sharma style mut paidan kanssa). Kruksi koostuu vaikeista muuveista pienillä krimpeillä ja huonoilla jalkaotteilla. Fiilis oli taas mahtava, projektit paukkuu sitä vauhtii, että alkaa uhkaavasti näyttämään siltä, että reitit loppuu joensuun alueelta. Sain kauden ekan pikku reiänkin sormeen : D

Tämmöstä tällä kertaa itärajan tuntumasta. Vielä kerkee treenata vähän aikaa ennen kalymnoksen reissua missä lähetyskerho Sami&Pamu kokoontuu. Eikun hyviä kelejä ja onnea omien projektien ja rajojen ylitämisessä!

- Sami

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